How do I repair my stair bannister?At what height should a stair handrail be?What is the order of installation for a stair railing?How to fix broken brick staircase?How can I set up a removable stair railing?How to remove nails from 6 x 8 lumberHow to finish wood stair treads?Interpreting stair railing codeHow to make a 19' bannister sturdy?Stair tread partial repairHow do I attach a wooden post to existing concrete steps?
In Star Trek IV, why did the Bounty go back to a time when whales were already rare?
Can the electrostatic force be infinite in magnitude?
I2C signal and power over long range (10meter cable)
Is it okay / does it make sense for another player to join a running game of Munchkin?
How to deal with or prevent idle in the test team?
Partial sums of primes
Is a naturally all "male" species possible?
Are Warlocks Arcane or Divine?
Does "Dominei" mean something?
Giant Toughroad SLR 2 for 200 miles in two days, will it make it?
Can I use my Chinese passport to enter China after I acquired another citizenship?
Bob has never been a M before
Who must act to prevent Brexit on March 29th?
Is there a problem with hiding "forgot password" until it's needed?
For airliners, what prevents wing strikes on landing in bad weather?
Freedom of speech and where it applies
Lifted its hind leg on or lifted its hind leg towards?
No idea how to draw this using tikz
What do you call the infoboxes with text and sometimes images on the side of a page we find in textbooks?
Calculating the number of days between 2 dates in Excel
The One-Electron Universe postulate is true - what simple change can I make to change the whole universe?
Could solar power be utilized and substitute coal in the 19th century?
Can somebody explain Brexit in a few child-proof sentences?
Why Were Madagascar and New Zealand Discovered So Late?
How do I repair my stair bannister?
At what height should a stair handrail be?What is the order of installation for a stair railing?How to fix broken brick staircase?How can I set up a removable stair railing?How to remove nails from 6 x 8 lumberHow to finish wood stair treads?Interpreting stair railing codeHow to make a 19' bannister sturdy?Stair tread partial repairHow do I attach a wooden post to existing concrete steps?
My stairs bannister are made of small wood posts nailed to the ramp. The whole thing have always been quite fragile. After 10 years, a couple posts came loose and most show a gap between the posts and ramp.
I know how to use a screwdriver and screw, but I've never done any woodworking with nails. I only have basic equipment (hammer, various screws, screwdriver).
- What would be the simplest fix?
- What nails do I need?
- What tools should I use to solidify the whole ramp?
wood stairs railing
edited 10 hours ago
Machavity
7,93411840
asked yesterday
JeffreyJeffrey
580417
add a comment |
My stairs bannister are made of small wood posts nailed to the ramp. The whole thing have always been quite fragile. After 10 years, a couple posts came loose and most show a gap between the posts and ramp.
I know how to use a screwdriver and screw, but I've never done any woodworking with nails. I only have basic equipment (hammer, various screws, screwdriver).
- What would be the simplest fix?
- What nails do I need?
- What tools should I use to solidify the whole ramp?
wood stairs railing
edited 10 hours ago
Machavity
7,93411840
asked yesterday
JeffreyJeffrey
580417
add a comment |
My stairs bannister are made of small wood posts nailed to the ramp. The whole thing have always been quite fragile. After 10 years, a couple posts came loose and most show a gap between the posts and ramp.
I know how to use a screwdriver and screw, but I've never done any woodworking with nails. I only have basic equipment (hammer, various screws, screwdriver).
- What would be the simplest fix?
- What nails do I need?
- What tools should I use to solidify the whole ramp?
wood stairs railing
edited 10 hours ago
Machavity
7,93411840
asked yesterday
JeffreyJeffrey
580417
My stairs bannister are made of small wood posts nailed to the ramp. The whole thing have always been quite fragile. After 10 years, a couple posts came loose and most show a gap between the posts and ramp.
I know how to use a screwdriver and screw, but I've never done any woodworking with nails. I only have basic equipment (hammer, various screws, screwdriver).
- What would be the simplest fix?
- What nails do I need?
- What tools should I use to solidify the whole ramp?
wood stairs railing
wood stairs railing
edited 10 hours ago
Machavity
7,93411840
asked yesterday
JeffreyJeffrey
580417
edited 10 hours ago
Machavity
7,93411840
asked yesterday
JeffreyJeffrey
580417
edited 10 hours ago
Machavity
7,93411840
edited 10 hours ago
Machavity
7,93411840
edited 10 hours ago
Machavity
7,93411840
7,93411840
asked yesterday
JeffreyJeffrey
580417
asked yesterday
JeffreyJeffrey
580417
asked yesterday
JeffreyJeffrey
580417
580417
add a comment |
add a comment |
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
Those wooden circles are plugs that will pry out of the holes in the balusters. Under that would be a pre-drilled hole for a screw (typically). I would have never used nails on this in the first place.
The correct fix is going to be to remove the nails and replace them with screws that fit into the existing holes snugly. If there is really just a nail hole, you may want to pre-drill a larger hole (sized appropriately for the screws you choose) and then drive in screws. An electric driver is going to be the best for this unless you only have a few to repair. A manual screw driver is going to get tiring and hard to use very quickly.
Once they are screwed into place, the wooden plugs can be tapped (maybe with some glue) back into place.
edited yesterday
brhans
2,75611222
answered yesterday
JPhi1618JPhi1618
10.5k12447
1
If the wooden plugs are already glued in place, will that make it a problem to remove without damaging them?
– David K
16 hours ago
2
It depends on what kind of glue and how old it is. A heat gun might help release it, but sometimes a good sharp blow will crack the glue joint. If they are stubborn, those "mushroom cap" hole plugs are pretty common. I know they sell small packs of them at home stores in the US (not sure where you are). If there is such a place, start on a less visible area.
– JPhi1618
16 hours ago
2
@DavidK They will likely be damaged a little, but they are cheap to replace if you can make the new ones look like the old ones. To minimize damage, use a piece of cloth and attempt to tap the narrow edge with a hammer to break the glue hold and follow up with pillars while still using the protective cloth.
– Jammin4CO
16 hours ago
@Jammin4CO And even if you can't match them, you could make it an accent e.g. use walnut plugs.
– JimmyJames
10 hours ago
add a comment |
A few tips on this, in addition to JPhi's answer
- The plugs shouldn't be glued in. They're tapered so they can be tapped into the hole and pried back out. I keep a narrow head flat screwdriver (like this one) for this reason. Tap your narrow head (using a hammer) against the bottom of the plug and you should be able pry it out. Even if it causes damage to the wood, it will be minimal and somewhat obscured.
- They used cheap penny nails to secure the railing. It's not surprising it failed (especially if you have kids, who will shake the tar out of that rail). Screws are the gold standard here, as they are far less prone to pulling out. They've finally become popular thanks to the wide availability of power screwdrivers and drills.
- There's only one attachment point per rail. If I were you, I'd want two. It would better secure the rails so they never come out again. Bad news is that means drilling more holes, but the wood plugs should be readily available for purchase. You might need to remove the rails to add new pocket holes as well.
answered 12 hours ago
MachavityMachavity
7,93411840
One thing to add is that the the length/size of the screw is pretty important here. You want to get as much bit as possible without coming through the other side. That will be much more difficult to repair. There are lots of screws to choose from.
– JimmyJames
10 hours ago
@JimmyJames Yeah, I'm estimating that rail is half an inch thick. That's why I would want more than one screw holding it on. Not much to bite to
– Machavity
10 hours ago
Agreed. I think I like 2 or 3 smaller diameter screws here over one larger one. @Jeffery: Use 1/16th drill bit pilot holes to prevent the bit from wandering if you go this route. A counter-sink drill bit may also be worth the investment.
– JimmyJames
9 hours ago
add a comment |
Your Answer
StackExchange.ready(function()
var channelOptions =
tags: "".split(" "),
id: "73"
;
initTagRenderer("".split(" "), "".split(" "), channelOptions);
StackExchange.using("externalEditor", function()
// Have to fire editor after snippets, if snippets enabled
if (StackExchange.settings.snippets.snippetsEnabled)
StackExchange.using("snippets", function()
createEditor();
);
else
createEditor();
);
function createEditor()
StackExchange.prepareEditor(
heartbeatType: 'answer',
autoActivateHeartbeat: false,
convertImagesToLinks: false,
noModals: true,
showLowRepImageUploadWarning: true,
reputationToPostImages: null,
bindNavPrevention: true,
postfix: "",
imageUploader:
brandingHtml: "Powered by u003ca class="icon-imgur-white" href="https://imgur.com/"u003eu003c/au003e",
contentPolicyHtml: "User contributions licensed under u003ca href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/"u003ecc by-sa 3.0 with attribution requiredu003c/au003e u003ca href="https://stackoverflow.com/legal/content-policy"u003e(content policy)u003c/au003e",
allowUrls: true
,
noCode: true, onDemand: true,
discardSelector: ".discard-answer"
,immediatelyShowMarkdownHelp:true
);
);
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function ()
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
);
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
StackExchange.ready(
function ()
StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fdiy.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f160538%2fhow-do-i-repair-my-stair-bannister%23new-answer', 'question_page');
);
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
Those wooden circles are plugs that will pry out of the holes in the balusters. Under that would be a pre-drilled hole for a screw (typically). I would have never used nails on this in the first place.
The correct fix is going to be to remove the nails and replace them with screws that fit into the existing holes snugly. If there is really just a nail hole, you may want to pre-drill a larger hole (sized appropriately for the screws you choose) and then drive in screws. An electric driver is going to be the best for this unless you only have a few to repair. A manual screw driver is going to get tiring and hard to use very quickly.
Once they are screwed into place, the wooden plugs can be tapped (maybe with some glue) back into place.
edited yesterday
brhans
2,75611222
answered yesterday
JPhi1618JPhi1618
10.5k12447
1
If the wooden plugs are already glued in place, will that make it a problem to remove without damaging them?
– David K
16 hours ago
2
It depends on what kind of glue and how old it is. A heat gun might help release it, but sometimes a good sharp blow will crack the glue joint. If they are stubborn, those "mushroom cap" hole plugs are pretty common. I know they sell small packs of them at home stores in the US (not sure where you are). If there is such a place, start on a less visible area.
– JPhi1618
16 hours ago
2
@DavidK They will likely be damaged a little, but they are cheap to replace if you can make the new ones look like the old ones. To minimize damage, use a piece of cloth and attempt to tap the narrow edge with a hammer to break the glue hold and follow up with pillars while still using the protective cloth.
– Jammin4CO
16 hours ago
@Jammin4CO And even if you can't match them, you could make it an accent e.g. use walnut plugs.
– JimmyJames
10 hours ago
add a comment |
Those wooden circles are plugs that will pry out of the holes in the balusters. Under that would be a pre-drilled hole for a screw (typically). I would have never used nails on this in the first place.
The correct fix is going to be to remove the nails and replace them with screws that fit into the existing holes snugly. If there is really just a nail hole, you may want to pre-drill a larger hole (sized appropriately for the screws you choose) and then drive in screws. An electric driver is going to be the best for this unless you only have a few to repair. A manual screw driver is going to get tiring and hard to use very quickly.
Once they are screwed into place, the wooden plugs can be tapped (maybe with some glue) back into place.
edited yesterday
brhans
2,75611222
answered yesterday
JPhi1618JPhi1618
10.5k12447
1
If the wooden plugs are already glued in place, will that make it a problem to remove without damaging them?
– David K
16 hours ago
2
It depends on what kind of glue and how old it is. A heat gun might help release it, but sometimes a good sharp blow will crack the glue joint. If they are stubborn, those "mushroom cap" hole plugs are pretty common. I know they sell small packs of them at home stores in the US (not sure where you are). If there is such a place, start on a less visible area.
– JPhi1618
16 hours ago
2
@DavidK They will likely be damaged a little, but they are cheap to replace if you can make the new ones look like the old ones. To minimize damage, use a piece of cloth and attempt to tap the narrow edge with a hammer to break the glue hold and follow up with pillars while still using the protective cloth.
– Jammin4CO
16 hours ago
@Jammin4CO And even if you can't match them, you could make it an accent e.g. use walnut plugs.
– JimmyJames
10 hours ago
add a comment |
Those wooden circles are plugs that will pry out of the holes in the balusters. Under that would be a pre-drilled hole for a screw (typically). I would have never used nails on this in the first place.
The correct fix is going to be to remove the nails and replace them with screws that fit into the existing holes snugly. If there is really just a nail hole, you may want to pre-drill a larger hole (sized appropriately for the screws you choose) and then drive in screws. An electric driver is going to be the best for this unless you only have a few to repair. A manual screw driver is going to get tiring and hard to use very quickly.
Once they are screwed into place, the wooden plugs can be tapped (maybe with some glue) back into place.
edited yesterday
brhans
2,75611222
answered yesterday
JPhi1618JPhi1618
10.5k12447
Those wooden circles are plugs that will pry out of the holes in the balusters. Under that would be a pre-drilled hole for a screw (typically). I would have never used nails on this in the first place.
The correct fix is going to be to remove the nails and replace them with screws that fit into the existing holes snugly. If there is really just a nail hole, you may want to pre-drill a larger hole (sized appropriately for the screws you choose) and then drive in screws. An electric driver is going to be the best for this unless you only have a few to repair. A manual screw driver is going to get tiring and hard to use very quickly.
Once they are screwed into place, the wooden plugs can be tapped (maybe with some glue) back into place.
edited yesterday
brhans
2,75611222
answered yesterday
JPhi1618JPhi1618
10.5k12447
edited yesterday
brhans
2,75611222
edited yesterday
brhans
2,75611222
edited yesterday
brhans
2,75611222
2,75611222
answered yesterday
JPhi1618JPhi1618
10.5k12447
answered yesterday
JPhi1618JPhi1618
10.5k12447
answered yesterday
JPhi1618JPhi1618
10.5k12447
10.5k12447
1
If the wooden plugs are already glued in place, will that make it a problem to remove without damaging them?
– David K
16 hours ago
2
It depends on what kind of glue and how old it is. A heat gun might help release it, but sometimes a good sharp blow will crack the glue joint. If they are stubborn, those "mushroom cap" hole plugs are pretty common. I know they sell small packs of them at home stores in the US (not sure where you are). If there is such a place, start on a less visible area.
– JPhi1618
16 hours ago
2
@DavidK They will likely be damaged a little, but they are cheap to replace if you can make the new ones look like the old ones. To minimize damage, use a piece of cloth and attempt to tap the narrow edge with a hammer to break the glue hold and follow up with pillars while still using the protective cloth.
– Jammin4CO
16 hours ago
@Jammin4CO And even if you can't match them, you could make it an accent e.g. use walnut plugs.
– JimmyJames
10 hours ago
add a comment |
1
If the wooden plugs are already glued in place, will that make it a problem to remove without damaging them?
– David K
16 hours ago
2
It depends on what kind of glue and how old it is. A heat gun might help release it, but sometimes a good sharp blow will crack the glue joint. If they are stubborn, those "mushroom cap" hole plugs are pretty common. I know they sell small packs of them at home stores in the US (not sure where you are). If there is such a place, start on a less visible area.
– JPhi1618
16 hours ago
2
@DavidK They will likely be damaged a little, but they are cheap to replace if you can make the new ones look like the old ones. To minimize damage, use a piece of cloth and attempt to tap the narrow edge with a hammer to break the glue hold and follow up with pillars while still using the protective cloth.
– Jammin4CO
16 hours ago
@Jammin4CO And even if you can't match them, you could make it an accent e.g. use walnut plugs.
– JimmyJames
10 hours ago
1
1
If the wooden plugs are already glued in place, will that make it a problem to remove without damaging them?
– David K
16 hours ago
If the wooden plugs are already glued in place, will that make it a problem to remove without damaging them?
– David K
16 hours ago
2
2
It depends on what kind of glue and how old it is. A heat gun might help release it, but sometimes a good sharp blow will crack the glue joint. If they are stubborn, those "mushroom cap" hole plugs are pretty common. I know they sell small packs of them at home stores in the US (not sure where you are). If there is such a place, start on a less visible area.
– JPhi1618
16 hours ago
It depends on what kind of glue and how old it is. A heat gun might help release it, but sometimes a good sharp blow will crack the glue joint. If they are stubborn, those "mushroom cap" hole plugs are pretty common. I know they sell small packs of them at home stores in the US (not sure where you are). If there is such a place, start on a less visible area.
– JPhi1618
16 hours ago
2
2
@DavidK They will likely be damaged a little, but they are cheap to replace if you can make the new ones look like the old ones. To minimize damage, use a piece of cloth and attempt to tap the narrow edge with a hammer to break the glue hold and follow up with pillars while still using the protective cloth.
– Jammin4CO
16 hours ago
@DavidK They will likely be damaged a little, but they are cheap to replace if you can make the new ones look like the old ones. To minimize damage, use a piece of cloth and attempt to tap the narrow edge with a hammer to break the glue hold and follow up with pillars while still using the protective cloth.
– Jammin4CO
16 hours ago
@Jammin4CO And even if you can't match them, you could make it an accent e.g. use walnut plugs.
– JimmyJames
10 hours ago
@Jammin4CO And even if you can't match them, you could make it an accent e.g. use walnut plugs.
– JimmyJames
10 hours ago
add a comment |
A few tips on this, in addition to JPhi's answer
- The plugs shouldn't be glued in. They're tapered so they can be tapped into the hole and pried back out. I keep a narrow head flat screwdriver (like this one) for this reason. Tap your narrow head (using a hammer) against the bottom of the plug and you should be able pry it out. Even if it causes damage to the wood, it will be minimal and somewhat obscured.
- They used cheap penny nails to secure the railing. It's not surprising it failed (especially if you have kids, who will shake the tar out of that rail). Screws are the gold standard here, as they are far less prone to pulling out. They've finally become popular thanks to the wide availability of power screwdrivers and drills.
- There's only one attachment point per rail. If I were you, I'd want two. It would better secure the rails so they never come out again. Bad news is that means drilling more holes, but the wood plugs should be readily available for purchase. You might need to remove the rails to add new pocket holes as well.
answered 12 hours ago
MachavityMachavity
7,93411840
One thing to add is that the the length/size of the screw is pretty important here. You want to get as much bit as possible without coming through the other side. That will be much more difficult to repair. There are lots of screws to choose from.
– JimmyJames
10 hours ago
@JimmyJames Yeah, I'm estimating that rail is half an inch thick. That's why I would want more than one screw holding it on. Not much to bite to
– Machavity
10 hours ago
Agreed. I think I like 2 or 3 smaller diameter screws here over one larger one. @Jeffery: Use 1/16th drill bit pilot holes to prevent the bit from wandering if you go this route. A counter-sink drill bit may also be worth the investment.
– JimmyJames
9 hours ago
add a comment |
A few tips on this, in addition to JPhi's answer
- The plugs shouldn't be glued in. They're tapered so they can be tapped into the hole and pried back out. I keep a narrow head flat screwdriver (like this one) for this reason. Tap your narrow head (using a hammer) against the bottom of the plug and you should be able pry it out. Even if it causes damage to the wood, it will be minimal and somewhat obscured.
- They used cheap penny nails to secure the railing. It's not surprising it failed (especially if you have kids, who will shake the tar out of that rail). Screws are the gold standard here, as they are far less prone to pulling out. They've finally become popular thanks to the wide availability of power screwdrivers and drills.
- There's only one attachment point per rail. If I were you, I'd want two. It would better secure the rails so they never come out again. Bad news is that means drilling more holes, but the wood plugs should be readily available for purchase. You might need to remove the rails to add new pocket holes as well.
answered 12 hours ago
MachavityMachavity
7,93411840
One thing to add is that the the length/size of the screw is pretty important here. You want to get as much bit as possible without coming through the other side. That will be much more difficult to repair. There are lots of screws to choose from.
– JimmyJames
10 hours ago
@JimmyJames Yeah, I'm estimating that rail is half an inch thick. That's why I would want more than one screw holding it on. Not much to bite to
– Machavity
10 hours ago
Agreed. I think I like 2 or 3 smaller diameter screws here over one larger one. @Jeffery: Use 1/16th drill bit pilot holes to prevent the bit from wandering if you go this route. A counter-sink drill bit may also be worth the investment.
– JimmyJames
9 hours ago
add a comment |
A few tips on this, in addition to JPhi's answer
- The plugs shouldn't be glued in. They're tapered so they can be tapped into the hole and pried back out. I keep a narrow head flat screwdriver (like this one) for this reason. Tap your narrow head (using a hammer) against the bottom of the plug and you should be able pry it out. Even if it causes damage to the wood, it will be minimal and somewhat obscured.
- They used cheap penny nails to secure the railing. It's not surprising it failed (especially if you have kids, who will shake the tar out of that rail). Screws are the gold standard here, as they are far less prone to pulling out. They've finally become popular thanks to the wide availability of power screwdrivers and drills.
- There's only one attachment point per rail. If I were you, I'd want two. It would better secure the rails so they never come out again. Bad news is that means drilling more holes, but the wood plugs should be readily available for purchase. You might need to remove the rails to add new pocket holes as well.
answered 12 hours ago
MachavityMachavity
7,93411840
A few tips on this, in addition to JPhi's answer
- The plugs shouldn't be glued in. They're tapered so they can be tapped into the hole and pried back out. I keep a narrow head flat screwdriver (like this one) for this reason. Tap your narrow head (using a hammer) against the bottom of the plug and you should be able pry it out. Even if it causes damage to the wood, it will be minimal and somewhat obscured.
- They used cheap penny nails to secure the railing. It's not surprising it failed (especially if you have kids, who will shake the tar out of that rail). Screws are the gold standard here, as they are far less prone to pulling out. They've finally become popular thanks to the wide availability of power screwdrivers and drills.
- There's only one attachment point per rail. If I were you, I'd want two. It would better secure the rails so they never come out again. Bad news is that means drilling more holes, but the wood plugs should be readily available for purchase. You might need to remove the rails to add new pocket holes as well.
answered 12 hours ago
MachavityMachavity
7,93411840
answered 12 hours ago
MachavityMachavity
7,93411840
answered 12 hours ago
MachavityMachavity
7,93411840
answered 12 hours ago
MachavityMachavity
7,93411840
7,93411840
One thing to add is that the the length/size of the screw is pretty important here. You want to get as much bit as possible without coming through the other side. That will be much more difficult to repair. There are lots of screws to choose from.
– JimmyJames
10 hours ago
@JimmyJames Yeah, I'm estimating that rail is half an inch thick. That's why I would want more than one screw holding it on. Not much to bite to
– Machavity
10 hours ago
Agreed. I think I like 2 or 3 smaller diameter screws here over one larger one. @Jeffery: Use 1/16th drill bit pilot holes to prevent the bit from wandering if you go this route. A counter-sink drill bit may also be worth the investment.
– JimmyJames
9 hours ago
add a comment |
One thing to add is that the the length/size of the screw is pretty important here. You want to get as much bit as possible without coming through the other side. That will be much more difficult to repair. There are lots of screws to choose from.
– JimmyJames
10 hours ago
@JimmyJames Yeah, I'm estimating that rail is half an inch thick. That's why I would want more than one screw holding it on. Not much to bite to
– Machavity
10 hours ago
Agreed. I think I like 2 or 3 smaller diameter screws here over one larger one. @Jeffery: Use 1/16th drill bit pilot holes to prevent the bit from wandering if you go this route. A counter-sink drill bit may also be worth the investment.
– JimmyJames
9 hours ago
One thing to add is that the the length/size of the screw is pretty important here. You want to get as much bit as possible without coming through the other side. That will be much more difficult to repair. There are lots of screws to choose from.
– JimmyJames
10 hours ago
One thing to add is that the the length/size of the screw is pretty important here. You want to get as much bit as possible without coming through the other side. That will be much more difficult to repair. There are lots of screws to choose from.
– JimmyJames
10 hours ago
@JimmyJames Yeah, I'm estimating that rail is half an inch thick. That's why I would want more than one screw holding it on. Not much to bite to
– Machavity
10 hours ago
@JimmyJames Yeah, I'm estimating that rail is half an inch thick. That's why I would want more than one screw holding it on. Not much to bite to
– Machavity
10 hours ago
Agreed. I think I like 2 or 3 smaller diameter screws here over one larger one. @Jeffery: Use 1/16th drill bit pilot holes to prevent the bit from wandering if you go this route. A counter-sink drill bit may also be worth the investment.
– JimmyJames
9 hours ago
Agreed. I think I like 2 or 3 smaller diameter screws here over one larger one. @Jeffery: Use 1/16th drill bit pilot holes to prevent the bit from wandering if you go this route. A counter-sink drill bit may also be worth the investment.
– JimmyJames
9 hours ago
add a comment |
Thanks for contributing an answer to Home Improvement Stack Exchange!
- Please be sure to answer the question. Provide details and share your research!
But avoid …
- Asking for help, clarification, or responding to other answers.
- Making statements based on opinion; back them up with references or personal experience.
To learn more, see our tips on writing great answers.
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function ()
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
);
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
StackExchange.ready(
function ()
StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fdiy.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f160538%2fhow-do-i-repair-my-stair-bannister%23new-answer', 'question_page');
);
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function ()
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
);
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function ()
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
);
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function ()
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
);
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
