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What causes the vertical darker bands in my photo?
Announcing the arrival of Valued Associate #679: Cesar Manara
Planned maintenance scheduled April 23, 2019 at 23:30 UTC (7:30pm US/Eastern)
Proposal: Rules for *New* Photo Contest on Main SiteWhat causes these inconsistent dark bands in some of my photos from an indoor event?How does light quality vary between fluorescent (CFL) and incandescent?Two pictures with the same setting come out with different lightingWhy does my white picture have a blue hue?What is the correct way to describe better camera, aperture f/2.2 or f2.2?What does “12MP + 12MP Camera” mean in the specs of a mobile phone?
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I was taking a picture of my class note with my mobile phone and after taking the snap, the photo appears to have some vertical darker bands.
The bands were moving horizontally from left to right when the camera lens were scanning the picture. When the shutter was clicked, the dark bands were captured. If observed carefully, there appears to be two dark bands.
What could have caused the dark bands?
mobile
edited Apr 15 at 17:44
Andrew T.
1195
asked Apr 15 at 8:31
Nilay GhoshNilay Ghosh
15616
New contributor
Nilay Ghosh is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
add a comment |
I was taking a picture of my class note with my mobile phone and after taking the snap, the photo appears to have some vertical darker bands.
The bands were moving horizontally from left to right when the camera lens were scanning the picture. When the shutter was clicked, the dark bands were captured. If observed carefully, there appears to be two dark bands.
What could have caused the dark bands?
mobile
edited Apr 15 at 17:44
Andrew T.
1195
asked Apr 15 at 8:31
Nilay GhoshNilay Ghosh
15616
New contributor
Nilay Ghosh is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
7
@flolilo - I see them as vaguely reddish, surrounded by vaguely bluish, at about ⅓ & ⅔ vertically. They're actually easier to spot if you shrink the image rather than expand it.
– Tetsujin
Apr 15 at 9:26
2
I have seen this happen most often with florescent lights, but some LEDs do it too. Most incandescents don't seem to do it noticeably. If you point the phone's camera up at the light, you should be able to see the flickers clearly on your screen.
– Moshe Katz
Apr 15 at 13:29
I get the same thing sometimes when taking pictures of miniatures. I have an architect light with a circular bulb (led) and if it's too close to the camera I'll get a similar banding effect (though often more like 3-4 dark lines).
– aslum
Apr 15 at 14:52
4
Possible duplicate of What causes these inconsistent dark bands in some of my photos from an indoor event?
– Michael C
Apr 16 at 5:10
Related: Two pictures with the same setting come out with different lighting and Why does my white picture have a blue hue? and How does light quality vary between fluorescent (CFL) and incandescent?
– Michael C
Apr 16 at 5:19
add a comment |
I was taking a picture of my class note with my mobile phone and after taking the snap, the photo appears to have some vertical darker bands.
The bands were moving horizontally from left to right when the camera lens were scanning the picture. When the shutter was clicked, the dark bands were captured. If observed carefully, there appears to be two dark bands.
What could have caused the dark bands?
mobile
edited Apr 15 at 17:44
Andrew T.
1195
asked Apr 15 at 8:31
Nilay GhoshNilay Ghosh
15616
New contributor
Nilay Ghosh is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
I was taking a picture of my class note with my mobile phone and after taking the snap, the photo appears to have some vertical darker bands.
The bands were moving horizontally from left to right when the camera lens were scanning the picture. When the shutter was clicked, the dark bands were captured. If observed carefully, there appears to be two dark bands.
What could have caused the dark bands?
mobile
mobile
edited Apr 15 at 17:44
Andrew T.
1195
asked Apr 15 at 8:31
Nilay GhoshNilay Ghosh
15616
New contributor
Nilay Ghosh is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
edited Apr 15 at 17:44
Andrew T.
1195
asked Apr 15 at 8:31
Nilay GhoshNilay Ghosh
15616
New contributor
Nilay Ghosh is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
edited Apr 15 at 17:44
Andrew T.
1195
edited Apr 15 at 17:44
Andrew T.
1195
edited Apr 15 at 17:44
Andrew T.
1195
1195
asked Apr 15 at 8:31
Nilay GhoshNilay Ghosh
15616
New contributor
Nilay Ghosh is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
asked Apr 15 at 8:31
Nilay GhoshNilay Ghosh
15616
asked Apr 15 at 8:31
Nilay GhoshNilay Ghosh
15616
15616
New contributor
Nilay Ghosh is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
New contributor
Nilay Ghosh is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
Nilay Ghosh is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
7
@flolilo - I see them as vaguely reddish, surrounded by vaguely bluish, at about ⅓ & ⅔ vertically. They're actually easier to spot if you shrink the image rather than expand it.
– Tetsujin
Apr 15 at 9:26
2
I have seen this happen most often with florescent lights, but some LEDs do it too. Most incandescents don't seem to do it noticeably. If you point the phone's camera up at the light, you should be able to see the flickers clearly on your screen.
– Moshe Katz
Apr 15 at 13:29
I get the same thing sometimes when taking pictures of miniatures. I have an architect light with a circular bulb (led) and if it's too close to the camera I'll get a similar banding effect (though often more like 3-4 dark lines).
– aslum
Apr 15 at 14:52
4
Possible duplicate of What causes these inconsistent dark bands in some of my photos from an indoor event?
– Michael C
Apr 16 at 5:10
Related: Two pictures with the same setting come out with different lighting and Why does my white picture have a blue hue? and How does light quality vary between fluorescent (CFL) and incandescent?
– Michael C
Apr 16 at 5:19
add a comment |
7
@flolilo - I see them as vaguely reddish, surrounded by vaguely bluish, at about ⅓ & ⅔ vertically. They're actually easier to spot if you shrink the image rather than expand it.
– Tetsujin
Apr 15 at 9:26
2
I have seen this happen most often with florescent lights, but some LEDs do it too. Most incandescents don't seem to do it noticeably. If you point the phone's camera up at the light, you should be able to see the flickers clearly on your screen.
– Moshe Katz
Apr 15 at 13:29
I get the same thing sometimes when taking pictures of miniatures. I have an architect light with a circular bulb (led) and if it's too close to the camera I'll get a similar banding effect (though often more like 3-4 dark lines).
– aslum
Apr 15 at 14:52
4
Possible duplicate of What causes these inconsistent dark bands in some of my photos from an indoor event?
– Michael C
Apr 16 at 5:10
Related: Two pictures with the same setting come out with different lighting and Why does my white picture have a blue hue? and How does light quality vary between fluorescent (CFL) and incandescent?
– Michael C
Apr 16 at 5:19
7
7
@flolilo - I see them as vaguely reddish, surrounded by vaguely bluish, at about ⅓ & ⅔ vertically. They're actually easier to spot if you shrink the image rather than expand it.
– Tetsujin
Apr 15 at 9:26
@flolilo - I see them as vaguely reddish, surrounded by vaguely bluish, at about ⅓ & ⅔ vertically. They're actually easier to spot if you shrink the image rather than expand it.
– Tetsujin
Apr 15 at 9:26
2
2
I have seen this happen most often with florescent lights, but some LEDs do it too. Most incandescents don't seem to do it noticeably. If you point the phone's camera up at the light, you should be able to see the flickers clearly on your screen.
– Moshe Katz
Apr 15 at 13:29
I have seen this happen most often with florescent lights, but some LEDs do it too. Most incandescents don't seem to do it noticeably. If you point the phone's camera up at the light, you should be able to see the flickers clearly on your screen.
– Moshe Katz
Apr 15 at 13:29
I get the same thing sometimes when taking pictures of miniatures. I have an architect light with a circular bulb (led) and if it's too close to the camera I'll get a similar banding effect (though often more like 3-4 dark lines).
– aslum
Apr 15 at 14:52
I get the same thing sometimes when taking pictures of miniatures. I have an architect light with a circular bulb (led) and if it's too close to the camera I'll get a similar banding effect (though often more like 3-4 dark lines).
– aslum
Apr 15 at 14:52
4
4
Possible duplicate of What causes these inconsistent dark bands in some of my photos from an indoor event?
– Michael C
Apr 16 at 5:10
Possible duplicate of What causes these inconsistent dark bands in some of my photos from an indoor event?
– Michael C
Apr 16 at 5:10
Related: Two pictures with the same setting come out with different lighting and Why does my white picture have a blue hue? and How does light quality vary between fluorescent (CFL) and incandescent?
– Michael C
Apr 16 at 5:19
Related: Two pictures with the same setting come out with different lighting and Why does my white picture have a blue hue? and How does light quality vary between fluorescent (CFL) and incandescent?
– Michael C
Apr 16 at 5:19
add a comment |
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
The darker vertical bands? I would ascribe them to a synchronization between sensor capture and a slightly flickering lighting (one aspect of the "rolling shutter" problem). Is the exposure time of the picture roughly three periods(*) of your local current frequency (1/15-1/20 of a second)?
(*) At least three bands in the picture, beside the two obvious ones, there is one along the left border.
answered Apr 15 at 9:21
xenoidxenoid
4,7371722
1
Another one starts at the right border. -> I think it's a rolling shutter with flickering light problem, too.
– Horitsu
Apr 15 at 12:06
add a comment |
To expand on xenoids answer.
Most phone cameras use what is known as a "rolling shutter", the exposure starts and ends at slightly different times for different parts of the image. This makes the sensor cheaper because the end of the exposure can be defined by the readout process rather than needing extra electronics to capture the image at the end of the exposure.
This causes time-variations in the lighting level to be translated to spacial variations in the resulting image.
So if your light source varies in intensity at a speed a few times faster than the sensor readout time, you will get bars like this. How dark the bars are will depend on the exposure time the camera is using. Pointing your camera directly at the problem light will likely result in a shorter exposure time and hence stronger bars.
Many (but not all) flourescent and LED lights flicker at twice mains frequency, which tends to be in the same ballpark as sensor readout times.
answered Apr 15 at 14:17
Peter GreenPeter Green
63448
add a comment |
As the other answers note, this is due to a beat frequency between the readout frequency and the flicker frequency of the lighting.
You should check that the country/region of your phone is properly set. Also check the camera app for a power line rate in the settings.
A properly designed phone or video camera is able to compensate for lighting flicker by ensuring that integration times are an integer multiple of the power line rate, 50 or 60 Hz. This is called an anti-banding filter. Conversely, if the phone is set with the wrong power line rate, it will make the problem worse by forcing a 5/6 or 6/5 factor.
answered Apr 15 at 21:00
user71659user71659
1213
New contributor
user71659 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
What are the chances that the camera app in the phone is "properly designed"? I mean, I have never seen power line rate setting in a camera app...
– juhist
Apr 16 at 6:57
2
@juhist maybe a very small chance for stock camera apps, but higher chance on "pro" and paid camera apps, like Camera FV-5 (I'm not affiliated, just a happy user after finding this feature on this app -- page 46 of the manual)
– Andrew T.
Apr 16 at 14:34
3
@juhist If you check the link in my answer, it shows that the stock Android camera system implements anti-banding. So all apps should by default. That's why I said to check system region, I believe most phones automatically select 50/60 Hz from that setting. The only reason why you normally need to manually set is for Japan which has mixed frequencies.
– user71659
Apr 16 at 15:16
ensuring that integration times are an integer multiple of the power line rate Hmmm. this on the contrary guarantees that the bands will always be at the same place. Hard to imagine how that works for still photo, without uncomfortably increasing exposure time.
– xenoid
Apr 16 at 19:40
@xenoid No integer multiples is correct. Because when you're integrating full cycles, the phase no longer matters. This is why 60 Hz countries use 30/60 FPS video. (You can assume the two power line halves are identical, so it's actually 120 Hz) When exposure times are short, you ensure that you're integrating over the same portion of the flicker cycle.
– user71659
Apr 16 at 21:04
add a comment |
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3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
The darker vertical bands? I would ascribe them to a synchronization between sensor capture and a slightly flickering lighting (one aspect of the "rolling shutter" problem). Is the exposure time of the picture roughly three periods(*) of your local current frequency (1/15-1/20 of a second)?
(*) At least three bands in the picture, beside the two obvious ones, there is one along the left border.
answered Apr 15 at 9:21
xenoidxenoid
4,7371722
1
Another one starts at the right border. -> I think it's a rolling shutter with flickering light problem, too.
– Horitsu
Apr 15 at 12:06
add a comment |
The darker vertical bands? I would ascribe them to a synchronization between sensor capture and a slightly flickering lighting (one aspect of the "rolling shutter" problem). Is the exposure time of the picture roughly three periods(*) of your local current frequency (1/15-1/20 of a second)?
(*) At least three bands in the picture, beside the two obvious ones, there is one along the left border.
answered Apr 15 at 9:21
xenoidxenoid
4,7371722
1
Another one starts at the right border. -> I think it's a rolling shutter with flickering light problem, too.
– Horitsu
Apr 15 at 12:06
add a comment |
The darker vertical bands? I would ascribe them to a synchronization between sensor capture and a slightly flickering lighting (one aspect of the "rolling shutter" problem). Is the exposure time of the picture roughly three periods(*) of your local current frequency (1/15-1/20 of a second)?
(*) At least three bands in the picture, beside the two obvious ones, there is one along the left border.
answered Apr 15 at 9:21
xenoidxenoid
4,7371722
The darker vertical bands? I would ascribe them to a synchronization between sensor capture and a slightly flickering lighting (one aspect of the "rolling shutter" problem). Is the exposure time of the picture roughly three periods(*) of your local current frequency (1/15-1/20 of a second)?
(*) At least three bands in the picture, beside the two obvious ones, there is one along the left border.
answered Apr 15 at 9:21
xenoidxenoid
4,7371722
edited Apr 15 at 9:54
answered Apr 15 at 9:21
xenoidxenoid
4,7371722
answered Apr 15 at 9:21
xenoidxenoid
4,7371722
answered Apr 15 at 9:21
xenoidxenoid
4,7371722
4,7371722
1
Another one starts at the right border. -> I think it's a rolling shutter with flickering light problem, too.
– Horitsu
Apr 15 at 12:06
add a comment |
1
Another one starts at the right border. -> I think it's a rolling shutter with flickering light problem, too.
– Horitsu
Apr 15 at 12:06
1
1
Another one starts at the right border. -> I think it's a rolling shutter with flickering light problem, too.
– Horitsu
Apr 15 at 12:06
Another one starts at the right border. -> I think it's a rolling shutter with flickering light problem, too.
– Horitsu
Apr 15 at 12:06
add a comment |
To expand on xenoids answer.
Most phone cameras use what is known as a "rolling shutter", the exposure starts and ends at slightly different times for different parts of the image. This makes the sensor cheaper because the end of the exposure can be defined by the readout process rather than needing extra electronics to capture the image at the end of the exposure.
This causes time-variations in the lighting level to be translated to spacial variations in the resulting image.
So if your light source varies in intensity at a speed a few times faster than the sensor readout time, you will get bars like this. How dark the bars are will depend on the exposure time the camera is using. Pointing your camera directly at the problem light will likely result in a shorter exposure time and hence stronger bars.
Many (but not all) flourescent and LED lights flicker at twice mains frequency, which tends to be in the same ballpark as sensor readout times.
answered Apr 15 at 14:17
Peter GreenPeter Green
63448
add a comment |
To expand on xenoids answer.
Most phone cameras use what is known as a "rolling shutter", the exposure starts and ends at slightly different times for different parts of the image. This makes the sensor cheaper because the end of the exposure can be defined by the readout process rather than needing extra electronics to capture the image at the end of the exposure.
This causes time-variations in the lighting level to be translated to spacial variations in the resulting image.
So if your light source varies in intensity at a speed a few times faster than the sensor readout time, you will get bars like this. How dark the bars are will depend on the exposure time the camera is using. Pointing your camera directly at the problem light will likely result in a shorter exposure time and hence stronger bars.
Many (but not all) flourescent and LED lights flicker at twice mains frequency, which tends to be in the same ballpark as sensor readout times.
answered Apr 15 at 14:17
Peter GreenPeter Green
63448
add a comment |
To expand on xenoids answer.
Most phone cameras use what is known as a "rolling shutter", the exposure starts and ends at slightly different times for different parts of the image. This makes the sensor cheaper because the end of the exposure can be defined by the readout process rather than needing extra electronics to capture the image at the end of the exposure.
This causes time-variations in the lighting level to be translated to spacial variations in the resulting image.
So if your light source varies in intensity at a speed a few times faster than the sensor readout time, you will get bars like this. How dark the bars are will depend on the exposure time the camera is using. Pointing your camera directly at the problem light will likely result in a shorter exposure time and hence stronger bars.
Many (but not all) flourescent and LED lights flicker at twice mains frequency, which tends to be in the same ballpark as sensor readout times.
answered Apr 15 at 14:17
Peter GreenPeter Green
63448
To expand on xenoids answer.
Most phone cameras use what is known as a "rolling shutter", the exposure starts and ends at slightly different times for different parts of the image. This makes the sensor cheaper because the end of the exposure can be defined by the readout process rather than needing extra electronics to capture the image at the end of the exposure.
This causes time-variations in the lighting level to be translated to spacial variations in the resulting image.
So if your light source varies in intensity at a speed a few times faster than the sensor readout time, you will get bars like this. How dark the bars are will depend on the exposure time the camera is using. Pointing your camera directly at the problem light will likely result in a shorter exposure time and hence stronger bars.
Many (but not all) flourescent and LED lights flicker at twice mains frequency, which tends to be in the same ballpark as sensor readout times.
answered Apr 15 at 14:17
Peter GreenPeter Green
63448
answered Apr 15 at 14:17
Peter GreenPeter Green
63448
answered Apr 15 at 14:17
Peter GreenPeter Green
63448
answered Apr 15 at 14:17
Peter GreenPeter Green
63448
63448
add a comment |
add a comment |
As the other answers note, this is due to a beat frequency between the readout frequency and the flicker frequency of the lighting.
You should check that the country/region of your phone is properly set. Also check the camera app for a power line rate in the settings.
A properly designed phone or video camera is able to compensate for lighting flicker by ensuring that integration times are an integer multiple of the power line rate, 50 or 60 Hz. This is called an anti-banding filter. Conversely, if the phone is set with the wrong power line rate, it will make the problem worse by forcing a 5/6 or 6/5 factor.
answered Apr 15 at 21:00
user71659user71659
1213
New contributor
user71659 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
What are the chances that the camera app in the phone is "properly designed"? I mean, I have never seen power line rate setting in a camera app...
– juhist
Apr 16 at 6:57
2
@juhist maybe a very small chance for stock camera apps, but higher chance on "pro" and paid camera apps, like Camera FV-5 (I'm not affiliated, just a happy user after finding this feature on this app -- page 46 of the manual)
– Andrew T.
Apr 16 at 14:34
3
@juhist If you check the link in my answer, it shows that the stock Android camera system implements anti-banding. So all apps should by default. That's why I said to check system region, I believe most phones automatically select 50/60 Hz from that setting. The only reason why you normally need to manually set is for Japan which has mixed frequencies.
– user71659
Apr 16 at 15:16
ensuring that integration times are an integer multiple of the power line rate Hmmm. this on the contrary guarantees that the bands will always be at the same place. Hard to imagine how that works for still photo, without uncomfortably increasing exposure time.
– xenoid
Apr 16 at 19:40
@xenoid No integer multiples is correct. Because when you're integrating full cycles, the phase no longer matters. This is why 60 Hz countries use 30/60 FPS video. (You can assume the two power line halves are identical, so it's actually 120 Hz) When exposure times are short, you ensure that you're integrating over the same portion of the flicker cycle.
– user71659
Apr 16 at 21:04
add a comment |
As the other answers note, this is due to a beat frequency between the readout frequency and the flicker frequency of the lighting.
You should check that the country/region of your phone is properly set. Also check the camera app for a power line rate in the settings.
A properly designed phone or video camera is able to compensate for lighting flicker by ensuring that integration times are an integer multiple of the power line rate, 50 or 60 Hz. This is called an anti-banding filter. Conversely, if the phone is set with the wrong power line rate, it will make the problem worse by forcing a 5/6 or 6/5 factor.
answered Apr 15 at 21:00
user71659user71659
1213
New contributor
user71659 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
What are the chances that the camera app in the phone is "properly designed"? I mean, I have never seen power line rate setting in a camera app...
– juhist
Apr 16 at 6:57
2
@juhist maybe a very small chance for stock camera apps, but higher chance on "pro" and paid camera apps, like Camera FV-5 (I'm not affiliated, just a happy user after finding this feature on this app -- page 46 of the manual)
– Andrew T.
Apr 16 at 14:34
3
@juhist If you check the link in my answer, it shows that the stock Android camera system implements anti-banding. So all apps should by default. That's why I said to check system region, I believe most phones automatically select 50/60 Hz from that setting. The only reason why you normally need to manually set is for Japan which has mixed frequencies.
– user71659
Apr 16 at 15:16
ensuring that integration times are an integer multiple of the power line rate Hmmm. this on the contrary guarantees that the bands will always be at the same place. Hard to imagine how that works for still photo, without uncomfortably increasing exposure time.
– xenoid
Apr 16 at 19:40
@xenoid No integer multiples is correct. Because when you're integrating full cycles, the phase no longer matters. This is why 60 Hz countries use 30/60 FPS video. (You can assume the two power line halves are identical, so it's actually 120 Hz) When exposure times are short, you ensure that you're integrating over the same portion of the flicker cycle.
– user71659
Apr 16 at 21:04
add a comment |
As the other answers note, this is due to a beat frequency between the readout frequency and the flicker frequency of the lighting.
You should check that the country/region of your phone is properly set. Also check the camera app for a power line rate in the settings.
A properly designed phone or video camera is able to compensate for lighting flicker by ensuring that integration times are an integer multiple of the power line rate, 50 or 60 Hz. This is called an anti-banding filter. Conversely, if the phone is set with the wrong power line rate, it will make the problem worse by forcing a 5/6 or 6/5 factor.
answered Apr 15 at 21:00
user71659user71659
1213
New contributor
user71659 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
As the other answers note, this is due to a beat frequency between the readout frequency and the flicker frequency of the lighting.
You should check that the country/region of your phone is properly set. Also check the camera app for a power line rate in the settings.
A properly designed phone or video camera is able to compensate for lighting flicker by ensuring that integration times are an integer multiple of the power line rate, 50 or 60 Hz. This is called an anti-banding filter. Conversely, if the phone is set with the wrong power line rate, it will make the problem worse by forcing a 5/6 or 6/5 factor.
answered Apr 15 at 21:00
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answered Apr 15 at 21:00
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answered Apr 15 at 21:00
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answered Apr 15 at 21:00
user71659user71659
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What are the chances that the camera app in the phone is "properly designed"? I mean, I have never seen power line rate setting in a camera app...
– juhist
Apr 16 at 6:57
2
@juhist maybe a very small chance for stock camera apps, but higher chance on "pro" and paid camera apps, like Camera FV-5 (I'm not affiliated, just a happy user after finding this feature on this app -- page 46 of the manual)
– Andrew T.
Apr 16 at 14:34
3
@juhist If you check the link in my answer, it shows that the stock Android camera system implements anti-banding. So all apps should by default. That's why I said to check system region, I believe most phones automatically select 50/60 Hz from that setting. The only reason why you normally need to manually set is for Japan which has mixed frequencies.
– user71659
Apr 16 at 15:16
ensuring that integration times are an integer multiple of the power line rate Hmmm. this on the contrary guarantees that the bands will always be at the same place. Hard to imagine how that works for still photo, without uncomfortably increasing exposure time.
– xenoid
Apr 16 at 19:40
@xenoid No integer multiples is correct. Because when you're integrating full cycles, the phase no longer matters. This is why 60 Hz countries use 30/60 FPS video. (You can assume the two power line halves are identical, so it's actually 120 Hz) When exposure times are short, you ensure that you're integrating over the same portion of the flicker cycle.
– user71659
Apr 16 at 21:04
add a comment |
What are the chances that the camera app in the phone is "properly designed"? I mean, I have never seen power line rate setting in a camera app...
– juhist
Apr 16 at 6:57
2
@juhist maybe a very small chance for stock camera apps, but higher chance on "pro" and paid camera apps, like Camera FV-5 (I'm not affiliated, just a happy user after finding this feature on this app -- page 46 of the manual)
– Andrew T.
Apr 16 at 14:34
3
@juhist If you check the link in my answer, it shows that the stock Android camera system implements anti-banding. So all apps should by default. That's why I said to check system region, I believe most phones automatically select 50/60 Hz from that setting. The only reason why you normally need to manually set is for Japan which has mixed frequencies.
– user71659
Apr 16 at 15:16
ensuring that integration times are an integer multiple of the power line rate Hmmm. this on the contrary guarantees that the bands will always be at the same place. Hard to imagine how that works for still photo, without uncomfortably increasing exposure time.
– xenoid
Apr 16 at 19:40
@xenoid No integer multiples is correct. Because when you're integrating full cycles, the phase no longer matters. This is why 60 Hz countries use 30/60 FPS video. (You can assume the two power line halves are identical, so it's actually 120 Hz) When exposure times are short, you ensure that you're integrating over the same portion of the flicker cycle.
– user71659
Apr 16 at 21:04
What are the chances that the camera app in the phone is "properly designed"? I mean, I have never seen power line rate setting in a camera app...
– juhist
Apr 16 at 6:57
What are the chances that the camera app in the phone is "properly designed"? I mean, I have never seen power line rate setting in a camera app...
– juhist
Apr 16 at 6:57
2
2
@juhist maybe a very small chance for stock camera apps, but higher chance on "pro" and paid camera apps, like Camera FV-5 (I'm not affiliated, just a happy user after finding this feature on this app -- page 46 of the manual)
– Andrew T.
Apr 16 at 14:34
@juhist maybe a very small chance for stock camera apps, but higher chance on "pro" and paid camera apps, like Camera FV-5 (I'm not affiliated, just a happy user after finding this feature on this app -- page 46 of the manual)
– Andrew T.
Apr 16 at 14:34
3
3
@juhist If you check the link in my answer, it shows that the stock Android camera system implements anti-banding. So all apps should by default. That's why I said to check system region, I believe most phones automatically select 50/60 Hz from that setting. The only reason why you normally need to manually set is for Japan which has mixed frequencies.
– user71659
Apr 16 at 15:16
@juhist If you check the link in my answer, it shows that the stock Android camera system implements anti-banding. So all apps should by default. That's why I said to check system region, I believe most phones automatically select 50/60 Hz from that setting. The only reason why you normally need to manually set is for Japan which has mixed frequencies.
– user71659
Apr 16 at 15:16
ensuring that integration times are an integer multiple of the power line rate Hmmm. this on the contrary guarantees that the bands will always be at the same place. Hard to imagine how that works for still photo, without uncomfortably increasing exposure time.
– xenoid
Apr 16 at 19:40
ensuring that integration times are an integer multiple of the power line rate Hmmm. this on the contrary guarantees that the bands will always be at the same place. Hard to imagine how that works for still photo, without uncomfortably increasing exposure time.
– xenoid
Apr 16 at 19:40
@xenoid No integer multiples is correct. Because when you're integrating full cycles, the phase no longer matters. This is why 60 Hz countries use 30/60 FPS video. (You can assume the two power line halves are identical, so it's actually 120 Hz) When exposure times are short, you ensure that you're integrating over the same portion of the flicker cycle.
– user71659
Apr 16 at 21:04
@xenoid No integer multiples is correct. Because when you're integrating full cycles, the phase no longer matters. This is why 60 Hz countries use 30/60 FPS video. (You can assume the two power line halves are identical, so it's actually 120 Hz) When exposure times are short, you ensure that you're integrating over the same portion of the flicker cycle.
– user71659
Apr 16 at 21:04
add a comment |
Nilay Ghosh is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Nilay Ghosh is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Nilay Ghosh is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Nilay Ghosh is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
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7
@flolilo - I see them as vaguely reddish, surrounded by vaguely bluish, at about ⅓ & ⅔ vertically. They're actually easier to spot if you shrink the image rather than expand it.
– Tetsujin
Apr 15 at 9:26
2
I have seen this happen most often with florescent lights, but some LEDs do it too. Most incandescents don't seem to do it noticeably. If you point the phone's camera up at the light, you should be able to see the flickers clearly on your screen.
– Moshe Katz
Apr 15 at 13:29
I get the same thing sometimes when taking pictures of miniatures. I have an architect light with a circular bulb (led) and if it's too close to the camera I'll get a similar banding effect (though often more like 3-4 dark lines).
– aslum
Apr 15 at 14:52
4
Possible duplicate of What causes these inconsistent dark bands in some of my photos from an indoor event?
– Michael C
Apr 16 at 5:10
Related: Two pictures with the same setting come out with different lighting and Why does my white picture have a blue hue? and How does light quality vary between fluorescent (CFL) and incandescent?
– Michael C
Apr 16 at 5:19